Geranium: A Memorable Lunch at One of Copenhagen’s Best

When I told friends I was headed to Copenhagen, nearly everyone asked, “Will you go to Noma?” After I returned, the question shifted to whether I managed to “get in.” The truth: I never tried. Noma feels like one of those legendary, nearly unreachable culinary temples—admired from afar and rarely experienced by chance. Instead of pursuing that difficult booking game, I focused on discovering who else is defining Copenhagen’s food scene today. The result: an abundance of inventive restaurants led by former Noma chefs and others inspired by New Danish cuisine. Dishes are seasonal, colorful and refined, bringing creativity to even casual cafés and bistros. Scandinavian food has clearly evolved well beyond stews and meatballs.

Copenhagen’s gastronomic landscape is impressive—many restaurants have earned Michelin recognition and international praise. On our visit we chose to have lunch at Geranium, recently listed at No. 49 on The World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Chef Rasmus Kofoed, who won the Bocuse d’Or in 2011 after previously taking bronze and silver, leads the kitchen. Geranium’s reputation is built on precision, seasonality and an elegant yet approachable style.

Lunch at Geranium felt as intricate and carefully composed as dinner, with the advantage of natural daylight to appreciate each plate and the park views from the restaurant’s rooftop-like position overlooking Fælledparken. The interior reflects Denmark’s renowned design language: clean lines, restrained furnishings and a neutral palette that keep attention on the food.

The kitchen is partly separated by glass, allowing diners to watch a team working with remarkable calm and coordination. Chef Kofoed was present at the pass, personally serving several dishes. That direct presence made the meal feel intimate and very personal: there is a special quality to experiencing the chef’s touch before a restaurant reaches full stardom, when the founder still oversees every detail and meets guests in person.

Chef Rasmus Kofoed at the helm of his kitchen.

The tasting menu included 14 courses, delivered with impeccable service—polished yet relaxed. Each course combined visual drama with accessible flavors; technique was evident but never overbearing. Instead of feeling clinical, the food felt warm and thoughtfully anchored in recognizable tastes.

Left: 1st course, Seaweed Potato Chips / Right: 2nd course, Candied Carrot Shell Filled with Seabuckthorn Foam

Highlights from the menu included a playful seaweed potato chip amuse-bouche, a delicate candied carrot shell with seabuckthorn foam, and a creative cheese course presented on a tree-trunk-shaped cracker. Mushroom foam and a razor-clam presentation enclosed in an edible shell demonstrated both technical skill and a light touch. A standout was a Jerusalem artichoke “tree” finished with walnut oil—beautifully constructed and sensorial.

Seafood courses were precise and fresh: a translucent gelatin “scallop” containing a scallop tartare showcased texture and flavor with theatrical presentation. A hake course paired with horseradish juice and herb stems maintained the menu’s balance between creativity and clarity. Even the bread—tiny warm rounds with airy, choux-like interiors—felt exceptional.

Part of the experience included a pre-dessert served at a special table inside the kitchen. We were invited to sit on stools facing the stoves and watch the team while enjoying elderflower soda—an intimate moment punctuated by the chef’s Bocuse d’Or trophies on display.

Dessert courses were delicate and thoughtful: frosty floral compositions with rhubarb and thyme followed by an elegant selection of mignardises enjoyed later in the lounge with coffee. The post-meal conversation was unanimous—this had been one of the finest meals I have experienced, a combination of technical mastery, seasonal sourcing and genuine hospitality.

Geranium
Per Henrik Lings Allé 4, 8.
2100 Copenhagen
Website: geranium.dk / Tel.: +45 6996 0020